Friday, February 26, 2010

February 2010 Daring Bakers: Tiramisu



The February 2010 Daring Bakers’ challenge was hosted by Aparna of My Diverse Kitchen and Deeba of Passionate About Baking. They chose Tiramisu as the challenge for the month. Their challenge recipe is based on recipes from The Washington Post, Cordon Bleu at Home and Baking Obsession.

The challenge this month consisted of making all of the elements for Tiramisu from scratch: savoiardi (ladyfinger) biscuits, mascarpone cheese, zabaglione, vanilla pastry cream, and whipped cream. This turned out to be a delicious challenge, one that I nearly skipped. I knew that I would have to substitute the coffee and alcohol, but having never had tiramisu I didn't know what flavors would best keep the spirit of the dessert. I substituted orange juice and balsamic vinegar and a little sugar for the wine in the zabaglione, and instead of soaking the savoiardi in esspresso and rum, I gave them a quick dunk in orange juice for the individual tiramisu in the ramekins. For the large one, I soaked the biscuits in torani hazelnut syrup. Both flavors worked really well.

One of the elements that seemed to trip up many of the other bakers was the mascarpone cheese. I actually had success this time around. I tried this same recipe for mascarpone for the cannoli challenge and it didn't work out so well. When I made it last time I cooked and cooked and cooked and couldn't get it up to the right temperature. This time Aparna and Deeba suggested making it in a stainless steel bowl. This made all the difference! Thanks to Deeba and Aparna for being such wonderful, helpful hosts this month. Delicious choice!





Continue for the recipes and more pictures.




RECIPE SOURCE:

Mascarpone Cheese – Vera’s Recipe (Baking Obsession)
Savoiardi/ Ladyfinger Biscuits – Recipe from Cordon Bleu At Home
Tiramisu Carminantonio's Tiramisu from The Washington Post, July 11 2007

Notes from the Hosts
If you cannot find Marsala, port wine is considered a good substitute.

  • If you would rather not use alcohol in your tiramisu due to diet restrictions or because you want to serve it to children, you may replace the Marsala with an equal amount of espresso or coffee.
  • Many people, especially those who are not excessively fond of coffee, might find brewed espresso very strong. In this case, please feel free to dilute the espresso or coffee to the desired strength.
  • It is generally suggested that cream with 25% fat is best for making mascarpone, but 36% works just as well.
  • We both used lime juice. Deeba has a recipe for mascarpone posted on her blog here.
  • The mascarpone recipe below is for approximately 340gms of mascarpone. The tiramisu recipe requires only 1/3 cup/75gms so you may scale down the recipe to requirement or put the extra mascarpone cheese to other equally good use. (100gms cream will yield approximately 75gms mascarpone)
  • While using the double boiler to make the mascarpone as well as the zabaglione, always ensure that the bottom of the bowl on top doesn't touch the bottom of the lower one. It is important to use a stainless steel bowl to pour your cream into, while making the mascarpone.
  • Ladyfinger batter is very fragile so fold in the flour and yolks very carefully into the meringue so that the whites don't lose their volume.
  • It might be a good idea to decide the size of the dish in which you intend to set the dessert, and make the fingers to a size which would fit that dish. This makes it easier when assembling the tiramisu later. Do remember that ladyfingers/ savioardi puff up a little while baking.
  • Ladyfinger biscuits may be stored up to a week in an airtight container. We both made the savoiardi fingers 4-5 days in advance, and stored them in an airtight box in a cool place (or the refrigerator).
  • We both made the zabaglione & pastry cream the previous day, and assembled the tiramisu the next morning. I (Aparna) then froze my tiramisu for 7 days before decorating and serving it.
  • Placing the bowl (in which cream is to be whipped) and the beaters of the hand held electric mixer in the fridge for about 1/2 to 1 hour before hand makes the cream whip up very well.
  • Do not dip the ladyfinger/ savoiardi into the coffee solution for more than ONE second, or they might become very fragile & disintegrate. Extra soaking is likely to spoil the end product, making it soggy. I (Aparna) dipped my biscuits only on one side and found they soaked up more than enough coffee solution.
  • If you would like to de-mould your tiramisu from your dish (cutting can be easier and neater this way, you can line your dish with plastic wrap (leaving a little extra on the sides of the dish) and then start assembling your tiramisu. Once the tiramisu sets in the refrigerator, you can use the overhang to pull the tiramisu out of the dish.

  • PREPARATION TIME:

    Tiramisu is made up of several components which can be made separately and ahead of time and put together the day before serving.
    Making tiramisu from scratch requires about 2 to 3 days (including refrigeration) from when you start making the mascarpone to the time the tiramisu is served. So this challenge requires some prior planning.

    Please read the instructions as you need to begin making the mascarpone at least a day in advance.
    The zabaglione & pastry cream also need 4 hours to an overnight for chilling, as does the main dessert. The flavours mature after an overnight rest, and the dessert can be kept refrigerated for 2-3 days.
    Once assembled, the tiramisu can be frozen till you need to serve it, in case you are not serving it immediately.

    EQUIPMENT REQUIRED:
    • A double boiler (a stainless steel bowl that fits inside a large saucepan/ pot without touching the bottom will do)
    • Two or three large mixing bowls
    • Whisk
    • A medium sized heavy bottomed pan
    • Fine meshed strainer (to remove lumps from pastry cream, if any)
    • Electric mixer, hand held
    • Serving dish (or dishes) of choice (8" by 8" should be fine)
    • Spatula for folding and spoons as required
    • Plastic wrap/ clingfilm
    • Baking sheets
    • Parchment paper or nonstick liners
    • Pastry bag (can be disposable)
    • Plain 3/4" pastry bag tip or cut the end of pastry bag to this size (If you don’t have a pastry bag and/or tips, you can use a Ziploc bag with the corner snipped off)
    • Oven
    • Cooling rack
    • Thin-bladed spatula for removing ladyfinger biscuits from the baking sheets
    • Instant-read thermometer (optional)
    • Strainer
    • Cheesecloth or cotton napkin for draining mascarpone
    • Fine-mesh strainer for shaking cocoa powder on tiramisu

    ZABAGLIONE:

    2 large egg yolks
    3 tablespoons sugar/50gms
    1/4 cup/60ml Marsala wine (or port or coffee)
    1/4 teaspoon/ 1.25ml vanilla extract
    1/2 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
    Heat water in a double boiler. If you don’t have a double boiler, place a pot with about an inch of water in it on the stove. Place a heat-proof bowl in the pot making sure the bottom does not touch the water.
    In a large mixing bowl (or stainless steel mixing bowl), mix together the egg yolks, sugar, the Marsala (or espresso/ coffee), vanilla extract and lemon zest. Whisk together until the yolks are fully blended and the mixture looks smooth.
    Transfer the mixture to the top of a double boiler or place your bowl over the pan/ pot with simmering water. Cook the egg mixture over low heat, stirring constantly, for about 8 minutes or until it resembles thick custard. It may bubble a bit as it reaches that consistency.
    Let cool to room temperature and transfer the zabaglione to a bowl. Cover and refrigerate at least 4 hours or overnight, until thoroughly chilled.
    *In place of the wine, I substituted orange concentrate, balsamic vinegar and sugar- enough to make 1/4 cup. Approximately 1 tablespoon vinegar 3 tablespoons concentrate and 1 tablespoon sugar.



    VANILLA PASTRY CREAM:

    1/4 cup/55gms sugar
    1 tablespoon/8gms all purpose flour
    1/2 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
    1/2 teaspoon/ 2.5ml vanilla extract
    1 large egg yolk
    3/4 cup/175ml whole milk

    Mix together the sugar, flour, lemon zest and vanilla extract in a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan. To this add the egg yolk and half the milk. Whisk until smooth.
    Now place the saucepan over low heat and cook, stirring constantly to prevent the mixture from curdling.
    Add the remaining milk a little at a time, still stirring constantly. After about 12 minutes the mixture will be thick, free of lumps and beginning to bubble. (If you have a few lumps, don’t worry. You can push the cream through a fine-mesh strainer.)
    Transfer the pastry cream to a bowl and cool to room temperature. Cover with plastic film and refrigerate at least 4 hours or overnight, until thoroughly chilled.



    WHIPPED CREAM:


    1 cup/235ml chilled heavy cream (we used 25%)
    1/4 cup/55gms sugar
    1/2 teaspoon/ 2.5ml vanilla extract

    Combine the cream, sugar and vanilla extract in a mixing bowl. Beat with an electric hand mixer or immersion blender until the mixture holds stiff peaks. Set aside.

    MASCARPONE CHEESE:

    This recipe makes 12oz/ 340gm of mascarpone cheese
    Ingredients:
    474ml (approx. 500ml)/ 2 cups whipping (36 %) pasteurized (not ultra-pasteurized), preferably organic cream (between 25% to 36% cream will do)
    1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

    Bring 1 inch of water to a boil in a wide skillet. Reduce the heat to medium-low so the water is barely simmering. Pour the cream into a medium heat-resistant bowl, then place the bowl into the skillet. Heat the cream, stirring often, to 190 F. If you do not have a thermometer, wait until small bubbles keep trying to push up to the surface.
    It will take about 15 minutes of delicate heating. Add the lemon juice and continue heating the mixture, stirring gently, until the cream curdles. Do not expect the same action as you see during ricotta cheese making. All that the whipping cream will do is become thicker, like a well-done crème anglaise. It will cover a back of your wooden spoon thickly. You will see just a few clear whey streaks when you stir. Remove the bowl from the water and let cool for about 20 minutes. Meanwhile, line a sieve with four layers of dampened cheesecloth and set it over a bowl. Transfer the mixture into the lined sieve. Do not squeeze the cheese in the cheesecloth or press on its surface (be patient, it will firm up after refrigeration time). Once cooled completely, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate (in the sieve) overnight or up to 24 hours.
    Vera’s notes: The first time I made mascarpone I had all doubts if it’d been cooked enough, because of its custard-like texture. Have no fear, it will firm up beautifully in the fridge, and will yet remain lusciously creamy.
    Keep refrigerated and use within 3 to 4 days.



    SAVOIARDI / LADYFINGER BISCUITS:

    This recipe makes approximately 24 big ladyfingers or 45 small (2 1/2" to 3" long) ladyfingers.
    3 eggs, separated
    6 tablespoons /75gms granulated sugar
    3/4 cup/95gms cake flour, sifted (or 3/4 cup all purpose flour + 2 tbsp corn starch)
    6 tablespoons /50gms confectioner's sugar, Preheat your oven to 350 F (175 C) degrees, then lightly brush 2 baking sheets with oil or softened butter and line with parchment paper.
    Beat the egg whites using a hand held electric mixer until stiff peaks form. Gradually add granulate sugar and continue beating until the egg whites become stiff again, glossy and smooth.
    In a small bowl, beat the egg yolks lightly with a fork and fold them into the meringue, using a wooden spoon. Sift the flour over this mixture and fold gently until just mixed. It is important to fold very gently and not overdo the folding. Otherwise the batter would deflate and lose volume resulting in ladyfingers which are flat and not spongy.
    Fit a pastry bag with a plain tip (or just snip the end off; you could also use a Ziploc bag) and fill with the batter. Pipe the batter into 5" long and 3/4" wide strips leaving about 1" space in between the strips.
    Sprinkle half the confectioner's sugar over the ladyfingers and wait for 5 minutes. The sugar will pearl or look wet and glisten. Now sprinkle the remaining sugar. This helps to give the ladyfingers their characteristic crispness.
    Hold the parchment paper in place with your thumb and lift one side of the baking sheet and gently tap it on the work surface to remove excess sprinkled sugar.
    Bake the ladyfingers for 10 minutes, then rotate the sheets and bake for another 5 minutes or so until the puff up, turn lightly golden brown and are still soft.
    Allow them to cool slightly on the sheets for about 5 minutes and then remove the ladyfingers from the baking sheet with a metal spatula while still hot, and cool on a rack.
    Store them in an airtight container till required. They should keep for 2 to 3 weeks.



    TO ASSEMBLE THE TIRAMISU:

    2 cups/470ml brewed espresso, warmed
    1 teaspoon/5ml rum extract (optional)
    1/2 cup/110gms sugar
    1/3 cup/75gms mascarpone cheese
    36 savoiardi/ ladyfinger biscuits (you may use less)
    2 tablespoons/30gms unsweetened cocoa powder

    Have ready a rectangular serving dish (about 8" by 8" should do) or one of your choice.
    Mix together the warm espresso, rum extract and sugar in a shallow dish, whisking to mix well. Set aside to cool.
    In a large bowl, beat the mascarpone cheese with a spoon to break down the lumps and make it smooth. This will make it easier to fold. Add the prepared and chilled zabaglione and pastry cream, blending until just combined. Gently fold in the whipped cream. Set this cream mixture aside.

    Now to start assembling the tiramisu:
    Workings quickly, dip 12 of the ladyfingers in the sweetened espresso, about 1 second per side. They should be moist but not soggy. Immediately transfer each ladyfinger to the platter, placing them side by side in a single row. You may break a lady finger into two, if necessary, to ensure the base of your dish is completely covered.
    Spoon one-third of the cream mixture on top of the ladyfingers, then use a rubber spatula or spreading knife to cover the top evenly, all the way to the edges.
    Repeat to create 2 more layers, using 12 ladyfingers and the cream mixture for each layer. Clean any spilled cream mixture; cover carefully with plastic wrap and refrigerate the tiramisu overnight.
    To serve, carefully remove the plastic wrap and sprinkle the tiramisu with cocoa powder using a fine-mesh strainer or decorate as you please. Cut into individual portions and serve.

    *In place of the rum and espresso I substituted orange juice for the small tiramisu and for the large tiramisu I dipped the savoiardi in hazelnut syrup.





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    Saturday, February 13, 2010

    Daring Cooks February 2010 Mezze


    The 2010 February Daring COOKs challenge was hosted by Michele of Veggie Num Nums. Michele chose to challenge everyone to make mezze based on various recipes from Claudia Roden, Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Dugid.

    The challenge this month was to prepare a mezze table. It is a Middle-Eastern style of eating where many small dishes are served at once. Our hostess provided a variety of recipes but the only requirement was to make pita bread and hummus.

    I made the required hummus and pita,



    and also made cucumber riata (white yogurt dip), preserved lemons,


    Israeli couscous with roasted butternut squash and preserved lemon (recipe here), Moroccan chicken with preserved lemons (recipe here),



    and meyer lemon squares for dessert.


    It was such a delicious meal, and made a lot of food. We ate mezze for days! (Until getting a stomach bug and then we spent days wishing we could eat mezze.) I loved making the pita bread- it is a good recipe, and pretty easy. After we had eaten our fill of hummus and pita, we made the leftover pitas into pizzas.

    Continue for the recipes.



    These are the four optional recipes and there are many many more on Micheles website.

    Pita Bread – Recipe adapted from Flatbreads & Flavors by Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid
    Prep time: 20 minutes to make, 90 minutes to rise and about 45 minutes to cook

    2 teaspoons regular dry yeast (.43 ounces/12.1 grams)
    2.5 cups lukewarm water (21 ounces/591 grams)
    5-6 cups all-purpose flour (may use a combination of 50% whole wheat and 50% all-purpose, or a combination of alternative flours for gluten free pita) (17.5 -21 ounces/497-596 grams)
    1 tablespoon table salt (.50 ounces/15 grams)
    2 tablespoons olive oil (.95 ounces/29 ml)

    Directions:
    1. In a large bread bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water. Stir to dissolve. Stir in 3 cups flour, a cup at a time, and then stir 100 times, about 1 minute, in the same direction to activate the gluten. Let this sponge rest for at least 10 minutes, or as long as 2 hours.
    2. Sprinkle the salt over the sponge and stir in the olive oil. Mix well. Add more flour, a cup at a time, until the dough is too stiff to stir. Turn it out onto a lightly floured surface and knead for 8 to 10 minutes, until smooth and elastic. Rinse out the bowl, dry, and lightly oil. Return the dough to the bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Let rise until at least doubled in size, approximately 1 1/2 hours.
    3. Place a pizza stone, or two small baking sheets, on the bottom rack of your oven, leaving a 1-inch gap all around between the stone or sheets and the oven walls to allow heat to circulate. Preheat the oven to 450F (230C).
    4. Gently punch down the dough. Divide the dough in half, and then set half aside, covered, while you work with the rest. Divide the other half into 8 equal pieces and flatten each piece with lightly floured hands. Roll out each piece to a circle 8 to 9 inches in diameter and less than 1/4 inch thick. Keep the rolled-out breads covered until ready to bake, but do not stack.
    5. Place 2 breads, or more if your oven is large enough, on the stone or baking sheets, and bake for 2 to 3 minutes, or until each bread has gone into a full balloon. If for some reason your bread doesn't puff up, don't worry it should still taste delicious. Wrap the baked breads together in a large kitchen towel to keep them warm and soft while you bake the remaining rolled-out breads. Then repeat with the rest of the dough.


    Hummus – Recipe adapted from The New Book of Middle Eastern Food by Claudia Roden
    Prep Time: Hummus can be made in about 15 minutes once the beans are cooked. If you’re using dried beans you need to soak them overnight and then cook them the next day which takes about 90 minutes.

    1.5 cups dried chickpeas, soaked in cold water overnight (or substitute well drained canned chickpeas and omit the cooking) (10 ounces/301 grams)
    2-2.5 lemons, juiced (3 ounces/89ml)
    2-3 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
    a big pinch of salt
    4 tablespoons tahini (sesame paste) OR use peanut butter or any other nut butter—feel free to experiment) (1.5 ounces/45 grams)
    additional flavorings (optional) I would use about 1/3 cup or a few ounces to start, and add more to taste

    Directions:
    1. Drain and boil the soaked chickpeas in fresh water for about 1 ½ hours, or until tender. Drain, but reserve the cooking liquid.
    2. Puree the beans in a food processor (or you can use a potato masher) adding the cooking water as needed until you have a smooth paste.
    3. Add the rest of the ingredients and mix well. Adjust the seasonings to taste.

    *Optional Recipe: Cucumber Raita – Recipe adapted from The Indian Grocery Store Demystified by Linda Bladholm
    Prep time: Approximately 15 minutes

    1 medium cucumber, peeled and most of the seeds removed
    1 teaspoon cumin seeds (.1 ounce/3 grams) OR use a small pinch of dried cumin—to taste
    2 cups plain whole milk or Greek yogurt (17 ounces/473ml)
    1 garlic clove, peeled and minced
    fresh coriander or mint, chopped, a couple pinches or more to taste
    cayenne pepper or paprika, just a pinch to use as a garnish (optional)

    Directions:
    1. Peel cucumber, de-seed, and dice. Blot off moisture with paper towels.
    2. Toast cumin seeds for a few seconds in a small, heavy frying pan over high heat.
    3. In a bowl, stir yogurt until it is smooth.
    4. Mix it with the cumin, garlic and coriander or mint leaves (I used some grated radish instead).
    5. Stir in the cucumber and sprinkle with cayenne or paprika, and chill before serving.


    *Optional Recipe: Falafels - Recipe from Joan Nathan and Epicurious.com
    Prep Time: Overnight for dry beans and 1 hour to make Falafels

    1 cup dried chickpeas, soaked in cold water overnight OR use well canned drained chickpeas (7 ounces/100 grams)
    1/2 large onion (roughly chopped, about 1 cup)
    2 tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped OR use a couple pinches of dried parsley (.2 ounces/5 grams)
    2 tablespoons fresh cilantro, chopped OR use a couple pinches of dried cilantro (.2 ounces/5 grams)
    1 teaspoon table salt (.1 ounce/5 grams)
    1 teaspoon dried hot red peppers (cayenne) (.1 ounce/2 grams)
    4 whole garlic cloves, peeled
    1 teaspoon cumin (.1 ounce/2 grams)
    1 teaspoon baking powder (.13 ounces/4 grams)
    4 tablespoons all-purpose flour (1 ounce/24 grams) (you may need a bit extra)
    tasteless oil for frying (vegetable, canola, peanut, soybean, etc.), you will need enough so that the oil is three inches deep in whatever pan you are using for frying

    Directions:
    1. Put the chickpeas in a large bowl and add enough cold water to cover them by at least 2 inches. Let soak overnight, and then drain. Or use canned chickpeas, drained.
    2. Place the drained, uncooked chickpeas and the onions in the bowl of a food processor fitted with a steel blade. Add the parsley, cilantro, salt, hot pepper, garlic, and cumin. Process until blended but not pureed. If you don’t have a food processor, then feel free to mash this up as smooth as possible by hand.
    3. Sprinkle in the baking powder and 4 tablespoons of the flour, and pulse. You want to add enough bulgur or flour so that the dough forms a small ball and no longer sticks to your hands. Turn into a bowl and refrigerate, covered, for several hours.
    4. Form the chickpea mixture into balls about the size of walnuts.
    5. Heat 3 inches of oil to 375 degrees (190C) in a deep pot or wok and fry 1 ball to test. If it falls apart, add a little flour. Then fry about 6 balls at once for a few minutes on each side, or until golden brown.
    6. Drain on paper towels.

    Note: I sometimes prefer to bake these so I can avoid the deep frying. I bake them on a nonstick pad (silpat or the like) at 325F (160C), just until they’re firm, about 20 minutes.


    *Optional Recipe: Preserved Lemons – Recipe from Paula Wolfert and Epicurious

    Prep Time: 10 minutes and then up to 30 days

    5 lemons
    ¼ cup salt (2 ounces/60 grams)

    Optional Safi Mixture:
    1 cinnamon stick
    3 whole cloves
    5 to 6 coriander seeds
    3 to 4 black peppercorns
    1 bay leaf
    freshly squeezed lemon juice to taste, only if needed

    Directions:

    1. Special Equipment: 1 pint Mason Jar – Sterilized
    2. If you wish to soften the peel, soak the lemons in lukewarm water for 3 days, changing the water daily.
    3. Quarter the lemons from the top to within 1/2 inch of the bottom, sprinkle salt on the exposed flesh, then reshape the fruit.
    4. Place 1 tablespoon salt on the bottom of the mason jar. Pack in the lemons and push them down, adding more salt, and the optional spices between layers. Press the lemons down to release their juices and to make room for the remaining lemons. (If the juice released from the squashed fruit does not cover them, add freshly squeezed lemon juice — not chemically produced lemon juice and not water.*) Leave some air space before sealing the jar.
    5. Let the lemons ripen in a warm place, shaking the jar each day to distribute the salt and juice. Let ripen for 30 days.
    6. To use, rinse the lemons, as needed, under running water, removing and discarding the pulp, if desired — and there is no need to refrigerate after opening. Preserved lemons will keep up to a year, and the pickling juice can be used two or three times over the course of a year.

    Notes from Epicurious:
    According to the late Michael Field, the best way to extract the maximum amount of juice from a lemon is to boil it in water for 2 or 3 minutes and allow it to cool before squeezing.

    Notes from Paula Wolfert:
    • Located on Morocco's Atlantic coast, south of Casablanca and north of Essaouira, the city of Safi is known for its seafood specialties.
    • To most closely approximate the flavor of Moroccan lemons, Wolfert recommends Meyer lemons for this recipe. This lemon/mandarin orange hybrid, in season in January and February, has yellow-orange flesh, a smooth rind, and a sweeter flavor than other lemons.
    • To sterilize a mason jar for the lemons, place it upside down in a steamer and steam for 10 minutes. Using tongs (wrap the ends in rubber bands for a better grip), remove the hot jar and dry it upside down on a paper towel-lined baking sheet in a warm oven. To sterilize the jar's top, boil it in water for 5 minutes, then remove with tongs. For more information on home canning, click here.
    When you're ready to use a lemon, remove it with clean utensils to avoid contaminating the inside of the jar with bacteria. This way, the remaining contents of the jar will not need to be refrigerated.


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